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Bark to Bottle (MAY 2003 NO.14)

 

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Issue #14, May 2003
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Bark to Bottle, Issue #14, May 2003

From left: Amorim Academy members Joaquim Amorim, Robert Tinlot
and Professor Pascal Ribereau-Gayon at the 2002 awards ceremony
GRAND PRIX PRIZE AWARDED
The Amorim Academy awarded its 2002 Grand Prix prize to Catherine Peyrot des Gachons (University of Bordeaux 2) in December for her thesis titled Research into the aromatic potential of Vitis vinifera L.cv Sauvignon grapes.

Dr Peyrot des Gachons's work has extended knowledge of the characteristic components of the white sauvignon grape in Bordeaux.

Her study produced a precise method for measuring aroma precursors in sauvignon grapes, their distribution throughout the berry and their evolution during maturation and the winemaking process.

Dr Peyrot des Gachons found that alcoholic fermentation has a profound influence on the release of aromatic compounds derived from these precursors.

New compounds were also identified, making it possible to interpret the mechanism by which the aroma precursors are formed.

Industry debate continues

The Amorim Academy will continue its role of facilitating debate on issues affecting the global wine industry with a forum at Vinexpo 2003 in Bordeaux.

To be staged on 25 June, the debate is titled Consumption: what will drive growth?

According to Amorim Academy president, Robert Tinlot, some of the issues that will be covered include:

  • How are markets to be widened in response to increased production?
  • Is the consumer trend favouring quality wines, to the detriment of ordinary table wines, a deeper sign of a complete change in mentalities?
  • What position is to be taken on emerging markets?

The forum will bring together wine experts from the media, marketing, production and wine institutions.

Further information about the Amorim Academy can be obtained at www.academie-amorim.com.


NOT SO RANDOM OXIDATION


Excluding air during bottling will help reduce the incidence
of random oxidation.

The wine fault known as 'random oxidation' costs the wine industry dearly but the chemistry underlying the process is, as yet, unclear and solutions to the problem are not well appreciated.

Recent research that is beginning to reveal the factors that contribute to random oxidation may help winemakers avoid the problem.

Random oxidation describes the phenomenon where a bottle of white wine turns brownish, losing flavour and bouquet six to 18 months after bottling. The acknowledged incidence ranges from one in 100 to one in 25 bottles.

Many winemakers blame random oxidation on the closure, citing variations in cork quality. To complicate matters, the fault is often confused with 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) contamination.

Winemakers typically add sulfur dioxide to wine to prevent oxidation. However, if the sulfur dioxide content drops below a certain concentration, browning may commence suddenly.

Ascorbic acid, a well-known antioxidant, is sometimes also added to wine to 'brighten' the fruit quality and scavenge oxygen.

According to Professor Geoff Scollary, director of the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre (NWGIC) at Charles Sturt University in Australia, solving the riddle of random oxidation may depend on the interaction between ascorbic acid and sulfur dioxide.

Ascorbic acid itself acts as an antioxidant, but it breaks down into chemicals that can promote oxidation. One of these is hydrogen peroxide but NWGIC researchers have shown that there is another, as-yet-unknown, breakdown product of ascorbic acid that also promotes oxidation.

Scollary's team has established that when ascorbic acid and sulfur dioxide are present in similar quantities, the onset of oxidation is delayed, but not prevented, providing a possible explanation for the six to 12 months lag before oxidation begins.

Contrary to the advice in some winemaking texts, his team found that the addition of ascorbic acid required more sulfur dioxide to prevent oxidation than would be required if no ascorbic acid were present.

The use of ascorbic acid is a controversial practice and researchers recommend its addition at bottling time only. However, some wineries continue to add ascorbic acid at the crusher.

Research also indicates that the wine cork may not be as significant a factor in random oxidation as many believe.

The search for chemical residues within corks that might oxidise wine has proved largely fruitless, while experiments on the oxygen permeability of cork stoppers have been inconclusive.

Retired wine chemist John Casey says the oxygen and oxidants that initiate random oxidation are likely to be introduced during wine transfer and during bottle filling and corking. Small amounts may also diffuse from the cork.

"Excluding air during wine transfer and bottling and ensuring adequate levels of sulfur dioxide are the way to solve this problem," he says.

Vacuum corkers remove air from the headspace, but they do not work consistently well, making it possible for some bottles, but not others, to be sealed with significant amounts of oxygen. Other sources of oxygen pick-up include small leaks in feed lines and stoppages or slowdowns in bottling runs.

"There is a widespread view that the permeability of corks is the cause of post-bottling oxidation, but the evidence just doesn't stack up," Casey said.

The full text of this article, including references, is available at www.corkfacts.com/banrmenu/webxmain.htm

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